The photos at top show my finished version, the lower ones show work in progress. The first step is to make a tracing of the original design (or of course, if practical, use a flat-bed scanner).
You must "flip" the pattern, as you will be working in reverse. I mark the front of my glass with the word "front", and a few general outlines of the design. This helps keep me from painting on the wrong side (don't ask me how many times I have done that).
The materials used are artist oil paints, Japan colors in oil, varnish and gold size.
The outlines are done in umber tones, and very often, there are glazes for shadow areas placed where they will create shade and tonal effects. In the photo you can see glazes in the tree; this was not appropriate, and I re-did that area after this photo was taken. Remember, you will be painting foreground items first, ending with the background (that's why it is called reverse glass painting!).
Once a layer dries, you can move on to the next. With careful observation and planning, you can often do one of these simple designs in just a few sittings. The originals were quickly painted, giving them a very free effect. This is the hardest part of replicating these paintings. Don't fuss too much or they will look "worked over" and stiff.
A good resource is the book "Techniques in Reverse Glass Painting" by Margaret Emery (go to http://www.hsead.org/ for more information). Future blog entries will show some more techniques and projects.
You must "flip" the pattern, as you will be working in reverse. I mark the front of my glass with the word "front", and a few general outlines of the design. This helps keep me from painting on the wrong side (don't ask me how many times I have done that).
The materials used are artist oil paints, Japan colors in oil, varnish and gold size.
The outlines are done in umber tones, and very often, there are glazes for shadow areas placed where they will create shade and tonal effects. In the photo you can see glazes in the tree; this was not appropriate, and I re-did that area after this photo was taken. Remember, you will be painting foreground items first, ending with the background (that's why it is called reverse glass painting!).
Once a layer dries, you can move on to the next. With careful observation and planning, you can often do one of these simple designs in just a few sittings. The originals were quickly painted, giving them a very free effect. This is the hardest part of replicating these paintings. Don't fuss too much or they will look "worked over" and stiff.
A good resource is the book "Techniques in Reverse Glass Painting" by Margaret Emery (go to http://www.hsead.org/ for more information). Future blog entries will show some more techniques and projects.
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